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DOG TRAINING AND BEHAVIOR  

POTTY-TRAINING

So you have now brought your special friend home. Be it a puppy or full-grown dog, the first order of business is potty-training.

Here is where the crate comes in. The principle of the crate is very simple: you inculcate good habits in a puppy or a dog, making certain things unavailable to it (e.g. your nice furniture!). Also, the dog will not want to soil its own sleeping place and refuge, and this is a way of training it to go outside to do its business. However, this has to be used responsibly. It is cruel to be away for 8 hours at a time, and expect the puppy to hold it in for that length of time. For more information on crate-training, try: http://www.hsus.org  

A small anecdote about some dog-owners who left their dog crated in a wire crate for very long hours, that got extended as they found that the dog would hold in his needs. Well, their luck ran out, when the dog decided to stick his rear end against the wire, and projectile-pooped OUTSIDE the crate. It brings a new dimension to "thinking outside the box" but the point of the (true) story is that the use of the crate as a training tool must not be abused.

One of the most useful things in potty-training a dog is a consistent schedule. For example, you could take the dog out briefly first thing in the morning, and then for a longer walk after breakfast. And then it may get to go out for a short walk at midday, and then a outside again after dinner. If you get the dog door and train the dog how to use it, it can go in and out as it pleases. However, keep watch on this. Sometimes, a neighbor can instal a new motion light or in the summer may be out in the tool shed sawing away, and these new sounds and sensations may make the shy dog wary of going outside. By far the best way is to maintain as consistent a schedule of walking as possible, at least for an initial period of at least a couple of months.

Apartment dwellers now have certain options for when they are unable to let their dogs out. There are dog elimination systems that can work in a designated area, almost like a cat. These would be more suitable for the smaller dog, and are really not a very nice or natural alternative to letting the dog go outside. But they are good at a pinch, for a short designated period (one afternoon) or for emergencies. After all, a WALK is the high point of a dog's day!!! Check this site for pointers on training a small dog to use a litter box: http://www.kturby.com/litter/litter.htm  

If you are adopting a full-grown male dog that may choose to mark its territory, you may want to invest initially in a diaper, and combine that with the crate training and regularly scheduled outings. Remember, prevention is key. Once the dog has decided to mark a certain spot, it is very hard to stop the dog from returning to the same spot.

A word about accidents: unless you actually catch the pup in the act of relieving himself indoors and manage to pick him up and put him outside, it is pointless, aggravating and negative to lose your cool. Just clean it up, swear under your breath if you need to, and go back to crate-training and regular schedules. The next time the dog behaves in a desirable manner, i.e. goes to the bathroom outside, reward him with a treat.

So far, we have discussed the issue of potty-training. However, you should be aware that there are particular breeds of dogs that have a nasty habit of wanting to ingest poop. Some will sneak up to the catbox, and scavenge for tasty treats (apparently, catfood is richer than dogfood, although I have not tried either one as a before or after). Some will even try to ingest such "recycled" material in the park, or bring it into the house when you are not looking to save for later. No one is particularly keen on this habit, not least because of infections/diseases that may be contracted, and a watchful eye, barriers in the house, or the immediate removal of materials can take care of this. So is a simple "NO" that by a certain time, your dog will have learned to understand and respect!

BEHAVIOR TRAINING

There are certain things every dog should learn to do. There are certain other things that dogs have been taught to do that are not essential to its safety, your convenience, and the functioning from day to day in its relationship to you and its surroundings.

Here are some essential commands:

  1. Sit
  2. Lie down, or down
  3. Heel (for walking)
  4. Stay
  5. Coming when it?s called
  6. Yes and no

Certain dogs are taught verbal commands, others hand commands, and others a combination of both. It is not within the scope of this website to provide comprehensive training tips -- this is a job given to professionals. Many petstores will offer evening or weekend training sessions for a period of 6-8 weeks. This does not work if your dog tends to be overly aggressive or overly shy. In certain extreme cases, petowners bring their pooches to day or even weekly "bootcamps."

A very good alternative if the massmarket dog school does not work is to bring in a dog-trainer into your home. Then the trainer can examine the relationship between the dog and your children. For example, in a certain case, a dog was exhibiting aggressive tendencies only towards the youngest child in the family. The trainer suggested getting a stuffed dog that the pooch could dominate (as well as do other unspeakable things to), and it solved the problem completely.

The bottom line is that early training will integrate your pet into your home quickly and smoothly, and you will be able to enjoy his/her presence. The dog NEEDS to know the parameters to be happy and well-adjusted. Behavior problems are never "malicious" or the "fault" of the dog. There is usually a reason for it.

For more information, look at: http://www.apdt.com/  (Association of Professional Dog Trainers)

A fascinating account of animal behavior with many chapters on dogs and dog behavior can be found in Animals in Translation : Using the Mysteries of Autism to Decode Animal Behavior by Temple Grandin, Catherine Johnson

Also check out: Cesar's Way : The Natural, Everyday Guide to Understanding and Correcting Common Dog Problems by Cesar Millan, Melissa Jo Peltier



NAMING YOUR DOG/IDENTIFICATION

Naming a dog is a whole lot of fun! Sometimes, a thoroughbred may come with a posh name that sticks in the mouth of all the children in the household. You CAN change the name, and the dog CAN get used to its new name. Sometimes, it will take quite a few days for the name to settle on you and the pooch -- a good name is definitely worth it!

Many dogs now, even if adopted from a shelter or anti-cruelty society, will be micro-chipped with an identifying no. which can then be traced back to you. However, once you have named the dog, you would be advised to get hold of a name tag from a petstore. You can get ones made to order with the name of the dog and contact phone number custom-engraved at one of these machines at the store. Attach this to the D-ring of the dog-collar, and should the dog run away or be lost, it will be easy for the person to contact you WITHOUT going through the shennanigans of taking it somewhere to get the micro-chip deciphered.


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